An aerial view of lush mangrove islands and winding tidal channels along the South Florida coast.

Kayaking & Canoeing in Everglades National Park: Nine Mile Pond, Hells Bay, and the Wilderness Waterway

Everglades Travel Team··8 min read

No single trip covers "kayaking the Everglades" the way one hike covers a mountain. The park has routes for a two-hour afternoon paddle and routes that take experienced paddlers over a week to finish. Here's what's actually out there, from shortest to longest.

Quick Answer

If you want a half-day paddle with no permit and no experience required, Nine Mile Pond is the easiest real route in the park -- a 5.2-mile marked loop through sawgrass marsh. If you want a guided trip instead of renting your own gear, book with one of the two outfitters covered below. If you're planning a multi-day wilderness crossing, you'll need a backcountry permit, and that's a very different level of trip.

Nine Mile Pond: The Approachable Option

Nine Mile Pond is a 5.2-mile loop through shallow, grassy marsh dotted with mangrove islands, marked with numbered white poles rather than a clear channel. Water levels are best in fall and winter; during the driest part of dry season, some sections can get too shallow to paddle through. It's the route most visitors without their own gear should start with, since rental outfitters in the gateway towns can supply a kayak or canoe for the day without any special permit.

Hells Bay: Mangrove Tunnels to Backcountry Chickees

Hells Bay earned its name honestly -- "hell to get into and hell to get out of," as old-timers put it -- and it's a completely different kind of paddling than Nine Mile Pond. The route winds through narrow mangrove creeks and small ponds, marked by more than 160 poles, eventually opening into a series of bays. Distances run 3 miles to Lard Can Campsite, 3.5 miles to Pearl Bay Chickee, and 5.5 miles to Hells Bay Chickee -- all viable as overnight backcountry trips with a permit (see below), not just day paddles.

The Wilderness Waterway: A 99-Mile Crossing

For paddlers who want the full Everglades backcountry experience, the Wilderness Waterway runs 99 miles between Flamingo and Everglades City -- essentially the length of the park's entire Gulf Coast side. Most paddlers plan at least 8 days to complete it, camping at backcountry chickees, ground sites, and beach sites along the way. This is recommended for experienced paddlers only: real navigation skills, tide awareness, and self-sufficiency matter here in a way they don't on Nine Mile Pond.

Backcountry Camping Permits

Any overnight paddling trip into the park's backcountry -- Hells Bay's chickees, the Wilderness Waterway, or camping anywhere in the Ten Thousand Islands -- requires a wilderness camping permit. Per recreation.gov, where these are booked:

  • $21 non-refundable reservation fee, plus $2 per person, per night
  • Reservations open 90 days before your trip start date, at 10:00 a.m. ET, on a rolling basis
  • Covers three campsite types: chickees (10x12 ft elevated wooden platforms with a roof and portable toilet, holding up to 6 people), ground sites (earth mounds along bays and rivers), and beach sites (the only type where campfires are allowed, below the high-tide line)

Day trips on Nine Mile Pond or a guided half-day tour don't need this permit -- it's specifically for overnight backcountry camping.

Ten Thousand Islands: Where the Coastal Paddling Is

The Wilderness Waterway's northern half runs through the Ten Thousand Islands, a vast coastal wilderness of mangrove islands, shallow bays, and tidal channels on the park's Gulf Coast side. Paddlers here often see dolphins surfacing nearby and manatees gliding beneath the boat -- wildlife encounters that don't happen the same way on the park's freshwater interior routes.

Guided Options (No Gear Required)

If you'd rather not haul or rent your own kayak, two real outfitters run guided trips on the Gulf Coast side:

  • Everglades Adventures Kayak & Eco Tours (Everglades City) -- small-group (six or fewer) guided tours through mangrove tunnels, about two hours, no paddling experience required.
  • Everglades Area Tours (Chokoloskee) -- guided multi-day trips and shuttle service into the Ten Thousand Islands backcountry, including remote spots like Pavilion Key. This is the outfit to call if you're planning a real wilderness paddling trip and want the logistics handled.

Bottom Line

Match the route to your actual trip: Nine Mile Pond for an easy afternoon, Hells Bay for a taste of true backcountry mangrove paddling, and the Wilderness Waterway only if you're prepared for a genuine multi-day wilderness expedition with a permit in hand.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need a permit to kayak in Everglades National Park?

Day paddling on routes like Nine Mile Pond doesn't require a special permit beyond regular park entry. Overnight backcountry camping -- on the Wilderness Waterway, at Hells Bay's chickees, or anywhere else in the backcountry -- requires a wilderness camping permit booked through recreation.gov.

How long is the Wilderness Waterway?

The Wilderness Waterway runs 99 miles between Flamingo and Everglades City. Most paddlers plan at least 8 days to complete the full route, camping at backcountry sites along the way.

What's the easiest kayaking route in the Everglades?

Nine Mile Pond is the most approachable route -- a 5.2-mile marked loop through shallow marsh that doesn't require a permit or advanced paddling experience.

How much does a backcountry camping permit cost?

A $21 non-refundable reservation fee plus $2 per person per night, booked through recreation.gov up to 90 days in advance.